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{"id":1475,"date":"2012-10-01T01:00:06","date_gmt":"2012-10-01T01:00:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/?p=1475"},"modified":"2012-09-28T11:33:52","modified_gmt":"2012-09-28T11:33:52","slug":"short-runs-in-strange-places-ashgabat-turkmenistan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/2012\/10\/short-runs-in-strange-places-ashgabat-turkmenistan\/","title":{"rendered":"Short Runs in Strange Places \u2013 Ashgabat, Turkmenistan"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>I am half way through my jog round Ashgabat when I start to get worried. The police are starting to take an active interest in this random Westerner who is running around the government district at dusk, and I am worried about the language gap. To me, I am a harmless traveler keeping semi-fit while providing semi-amusing travel \/ jogging anecdotes to a very small group of touchingly devoted blog followers. To a cynical policeman, I am an undocumented foreigner running around their equivalent of Whitehall in an ex-Soviet (now proudly independent) state with an earpiece and a GPS tracking device. I wasn&#8217;t sure at the time whether I would have been able to explain that yes, my documents are at the hotel, that my earpiece is the unbroken half of my earphones keeping me supplied with Leonard Cohen tunes and that the suspicious tracking device is an iPhone with an app allowing me to count calories and to send maps to my mates, officer. And my, what lovely truncheons you and your friends have.<\/p>\n<p>As it was, the police \/ army interest was mercifully restricted to two loud flurries of whistles and lots of truncheon waving, and happily died down when I ostentatiously gave the international sign for: &#8220;Who me? Oh, I&#8217;m terribly sorry officer. Yes, I will happily run across this six lane highway to keep away from your turf.&#8221; You may see a couple of sharp kinks in the track below.<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333333; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 9pt;\"><div class=\"cgmp-centering-container-handle\" align=\"left\"><div class=\"google-map-placeholder\" id=\"affc54ba311d1732b996098dba9fabc6\" style=\"width: 500px; height: 500px;\"><div align=\"center\" style=\"background:url('http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/plugins\/comprehensive-google-map-plugin\/assets\/css\/images\/loading.gif') no-repeat 0 0 transparent !important; height:100px; width:100px; position: relative; top: 200px !important;\"><\/div><\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\r\n\t\t\t<div class=\"direction-controls-placeholder\" id=\"direction-controls-placeholder-affc54ba311d1732b996098dba9fabc6\" style=\"background: white; width: 500px; margin-top: 5px; border: 1px solid #EBEBEB; display: none; padding: 18px 0 9px 0;\">\r\n\t\t\t<div class=\"d_close-wrapper\">\r\n\t\t\t\t<a id=\"d_close\" href=\"javascript:void(0)\"> \r\n\t\t\t\t\t<img src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/plugins\/comprehensive-google-map-plugin\/assets\/css\/images\/transparent.png\" class=\"close\"> \r\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\r\n\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\r\n\t\t\t<div style=\"\" id=\"travel_modes_div\" class=\"dir-tm kd-buttonbar\">\r\n\t\t\t\t<a tabindex=\"3\" class=\"kd-button kd-button-left selected\" href=\"javascript:void(0)\" id=\"dir_d_btn\" title=\"By car\"> \r\n\t\t\t\t\t<img class=\"dir-tm-d\" src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/plugins\/comprehensive-google-map-plugin\/assets\/css\/images\/transparent.png\" \/> \r\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\r\n\t\t\t\t<a tabindex=\"3\" class=\"kd-button kd-button-right\" href=\"javascript:void(0)\" id=\"dir_w_btn\" title=\"Walking\"> \r\n\t\t\t\t\t<img class=\"dir-tm-w\" src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/plugins\/comprehensive-google-map-plugin\/assets\/css\/images\/transparent.png\"> \r\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\r\n\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t<div class=\"dir-clear\"><\/div>\r\n\t\t\t<div id=\"dir_wps\">\r\n\t\t\t\t<div id=\"dir_wp_0\" class=\"dir-wp\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"dir-wp-hl\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div id=\"dir_m_0\" class=\"dir-m\" style=\"cursor: -moz-grab;\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px; overflow: hidden; position: relative;\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img style=\"position: absolute; left: 0px; top: -141px; -moz-user-select: none; border: 0px none; padding: 0px; margin: 0px;\" src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/plugins\/comprehensive-google-map-plugin\/assets\/css\/images\/directions.png\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"dir-input\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"kd-input-text-wrp\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<input type=\"text\" maxlength=\"2048\" tabindex=\"4\" value=\"\" name=\"a_address\" id=\"a_address\" title=\"Start address\" class=\"wp kd-input-text\" autocomplete=\"off\" autocorrect=\"off\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"dir-rev-wrapper\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<div id=\"dir_rev\" title=\"Get reverse directions\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<a id=\"reverse-btn\" href=\"javascript:void(0)\" class=\"kd-button\"> \r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img class=\"dir-reverse\" src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/plugins\/comprehensive-google-map-plugin\/assets\/css\/images\/transparent.png\"> \r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t<div id=\"dir_wp_1\" class=\"dir-wp\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"dir-wp-hl\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div id=\"dir_m_1\" class=\"dir-m\" style=\"cursor: -moz-grab;\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px; overflow: hidden; position: relative;\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img style=\"position: absolute; left: 0px; top: -72px; -moz-user-select: none; border: 0px none; padding: 0px; margin: 0px;\" src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/plugins\/comprehensive-google-map-plugin\/assets\/css\/images\/directions.png\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"dir-input\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"kd-input-text-wrp\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<input type=\"text\" maxlength=\"2048\" tabindex=\"4\" value=\"\" name=\"b_address\" id=\"b_address\" title=\"End address\" class=\"wp kd-input-text\" autocomplete=\"off\" autocorrect=\"off\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t<div id=\"dir_controls\">\r\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"d_links\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<span id=\"d_options_toggle\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<a id=\"d_options_show\" class=\"no-wrap\" href=\"javascript:void(0)\" style=\"display: none !important;\">Show options<\/a> \r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<a id=\"d_options_hide\" class=\"no-wrap\" href=\"javascript:void(0)\" style=\"display: none !important;\">Hide options<\/a>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t   \t<b><span style=\"color: blue\">Additional options<\/span><\/b>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\r\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t<div id=\"d_options\" style=\"margin-bottom: 5px; text-align: left;\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<input type=\"checkbox\" tabindex=\"5\" name=\"affc54ba311d1732b996098dba9fabc6_avoid_hway\" id=\"affc54ba311d1732b996098dba9fabc6_avoid_hway\" \/>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<label for=\"affc54ba311d1732b996098dba9fabc6_avoid_hway\">Avoid highways<\/label>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<input type=\"checkbox\" tabindex=\"5\" name=\"affc54ba311d1732b996098dba9fabc6_avoid_tolls\" id=\"affc54ba311d1732b996098dba9fabc6_avoid_tolls\" \/>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<label for=\"affc54ba311d1732b996098dba9fabc6_avoid_tolls\">Avoid tolls<\/label>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<input type=\"radio\" name=\"affc54ba311d1732b996098dba9fabc6_travel_mode\" id=\"affc54ba311d1732b996098dba9fabc6_radio_km\" \/>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<label for=\"affc54ba311d1732b996098dba9fabc6_radio_km\">KM<\/label>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<input type=\"radio\" name=\"affc54ba311d1732b996098dba9fabc6_travel_mode\" id=\"affc54ba311d1732b996098dba9fabc6_radio_miles\" checked=\"checked\" \/>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<label for=\"affc54ba311d1732b996098dba9fabc6_radio_miles\">Miles<\/label>\r\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"dir-sub-cntn\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<button tabindex=\"6\" name=\"btnG\" type=\"submit\" id=\"d_sub\" class=\"kd-button kd-button-submit\">Get Directions<\/button>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<button tabindex=\"6\" name=\"btnG\" type=\"button\" style=\"display: none;\" id=\"print_sub\" class=\"kd-button kd-button-submit\">Print Directions<\/button>\r\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t<div id=\"rendered-directions-placeholder-affc54ba311d1732b996098dba9fabc6\" style=\"display: none; border: 1px solid #ddd; width: 500px; margin-top: 10px; direction: ltr; overflow: auto; height: 180px; padding: 5px;\" class=\"rendered-directions-placeholder\"><\/div>\r\n\t<\/div>\r\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p>Ashgabat is a strange city, but not how you think. I don&#8217;t know how many of our dear readers could accurately point out Turkmenistan on a world map (other than S___, our excellent guide, who may be reading this). In the West, news on Turkmenistan is pretty sparse \u2013 we have mostly heard of <a title=\"Turkmenbashi\" href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Saparmurat_Niyazov\" target=\"_blank\">Turkmenbashi<\/a>, who governed the country after independence from the USSR. A strongman in the Central Asian tradition, he did an enormous amount for his country, but also \u2026 renamed the months of the year after himself and his family, banned opera, ballet, beards, the wearing of make up by news anchors etc.. Cool, huh? Ashgabat was leveled by a massive earthquake in 1948, which also killed eight year old Turkmenbashi&#8217;s mother and left him an orphan. As such, when the massive post-independence oil and gas revenues poured in, Turkmenbashi decided to get Dubai-serious with the reconstruction of his proud nation&#8217;s capital. This includes:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Scads of white marble. Seriously, more white marble than you can shake a stick at. Gold domes, gold doors, huge white marble pillars. Unofficially titled White City, we rechristened it Need-Sunglasses City. Did we mention the white marble?<\/li>\n<li>A white marble foreign ministry with a whacking great globe on top (Turkmenistan picked out in gold); an education ministry in the shape of a huge white marble book; repeat for every ministry<\/li>\n<li>A humungous arch called &#8220;The Arch of Neutrality&#8221;, summing up Turkmenistan&#8217;s foreign policy, but also handily including a 12 metre high golden statue of Turkmenbashi which revolves to face the sun. This used to be in the centre of town, but was moved by the new government apparently because \u2026 it got in the way of a parade<\/li>\n<li>A massive fairground in the centre of town called, handily, &#8220;The Turkmenbashi World of Fairytales&#8221;. We tried to get in to this one evening, but we foolishly tried to get in at the entrance marked &#8220;Entrance&#8221; on all the maps \u2013 you know, the one with the ticket office and the turnstiles. The entrance is actually round the back<\/li>\n<li>What else? Oh, a massive gold and white marble ferris wheel, huge monuments and museums to Turkmen independence, a museum full of presents given to Turkmenbashi. You name it, if it is magnificent and has been done before (even in Pyongyang), it is here, all bright and shiny. Class.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>And yet&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>We loved Turkmenistan. Ashgabat is clean and modern, with excellent infrastructure (if a lot of policemen, and not too many opposition parties). We were entertainingly and interestingly shown round by our excellent guide and driver and shown truly wonderful old-world gracious hospitality. The markets were groaning with fresh and dried fruits, vegetables and every kind of dairy product (there is a post brewing somewhere about the entire milk \/ cream \/ yoghurt \/ cheese spectrum and quite how many delicious individual points there are along it). There was architecture in the countryside from when the proto-English were still living in mud huts (anyone remember the Parthians from schoolboy latin lessons? Their capital was here, and still is). There were spectacular dusty mountains with Iran on the other side. You could really feel that you were on the Silk Road. It was fantastic.<\/p>\n<p>And Turkmenbashi? Well, he unfortunately died in 2006, and has been replaced by his number two,\u00a0Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow. The Turkmen are reasonable, if passionate people. Imagine asking a married acquaintance of yours about his ex-girlfriend \u2013 you know, the one for whom he made all the <em>truly <\/em>wild romantic gestures when he was younger \u2013 and that is the type of response you get when the subject of Turkmenbashi comes around. Yes, we went out. Yes, it was great. Yes, we have both moved on. Have you met my wife?<\/p>\n\n\t\t<style type=\"text\/css\">\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 {\n\t\t\t\tmargin: auto;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 .gallery-item {\n\t\t\t\tfloat: left;\n\t\t\t\tmargin-top: 10px;\n\t\t\t\ttext-align: center;\n\t\t\t\twidth: 20%;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 img {\n\t\t\t\tborder: 2px solid #cfcfcf;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 .gallery-caption {\n\t\t\t\tmargin-left: 0;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t\/* see gallery_shortcode() in wp-includes\/media.php *\/\n\t\t<\/style>\n\t\t<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-1475 gallery-columns-5 gallery-size-thumbnail'><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/01.-The-view-from-our-hotel-room.-A-little-post-soviet-but-actually-very-nice.jpg'><img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/01.-The-view-from-our-hotel-room.-A-little-post-soviet-but-actually-very-nice-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"The view from our hotel room. A little post-soviet, but actually very nice\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-1477\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-1477'>\n\t\t\t\tThe view from our hotel room. A little post-soviet, but actually very nice\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/02.-The-Monument-to-Turkmen-Independence-taken-through-the-colonade-of-the-Palace-of-Learning.jpg'><img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/02.-The-Monument-to-Turkmen-Independence-taken-through-the-colonade-of-the-Palace-of-Learning-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"The Monument to Turkmen Independence and Peace, taken through the colonade of the Palace of Learning\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-1478\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-1478'>\n\t\t\t\tThe Monument to Turkmen Independence and Peace, taken through the colonade of the Palace of Learning\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/03.-Lucy-enthralled-by-the-Museum-of-Turkmenbashi.jpg'><img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/03.-Lucy-enthralled-by-the-Museum-of-Turkmenbashi-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Lucy, enthralled by the Museum of Turkmenbashi\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-1479\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-1479'>\n\t\t\t\tLucy, enthralled by the Museum of Turkmenbashi\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/04.-You-can-build-in-any-colour-you-like-so-long-as-its-white-marble.jpg'><img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/04.-You-can-build-in-any-colour-you-like-so-long-as-its-white-marble-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"You can build in any colour you like, so long as it&#039;s white marble\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-1480\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-1480'>\n\t\t\t\tYou can build in any colour you like, so long as it&#8217;s white marble\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/05.-A-huge-gold-and-white-marble-ferris-wheel.-In-the-desert.-Of-course..jpg'><img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/05.-A-huge-gold-and-white-marble-ferris-wheel.-In-the-desert.-Of-course.-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"A huge gold and white marble ferris wheel. In the desert. Of course\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-1481\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-1481'>\n\t\t\t\tA huge gold and white marble ferris wheel. In the desert. Of course\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>By the way, those of you who read the back page of the Financial Times may have noticed that Tyler Brul\u00e9, that habitual rou\u00e9, has started to taking inspiration from my &#8220;Short Runs&#8221; blogs for his <a title=\"articles\" href=\"http:\/\/www.ft.com\/cms\/s\/2\/772031a8-f1b9-11e1-bda3-00144feabdc0.html\">articles<\/a>. Oh Tyler dear, all you had to do was ask. Perhaps we should expect high powered expositions on international Tuna \/ Rice cuisine to appear next?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>I am half way through my jog round Ashgabat when I start to get worried. The police are starting to take an active interest in this random Westerner who is running around the government district at dusk, and I am &hellip; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/2012\/10\/short-runs-in-strange-places-ashgabat-turkmenistan\/\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1475"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1475"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1475\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1531,"href":"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1475\/revisions\/1531"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1475"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1475"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1475"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}