{"id":1877,"date":"2012-11-11T13:54:08","date_gmt":"2012-11-11T13:54:08","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/?p=1877"},"modified":"2012-11-14T00:07:20","modified_gmt":"2012-11-14T00:07:20","slug":"monastery-mayhem","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/2012\/11\/monastery-mayhem\/","title":{"rendered":"Monastery Mayhem"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>[Before you get too excited, no actual mayhem involved whatsoever. But hey, why let that spoil a great title?]<\/p>\n<p>So, as James may have mentioned between rants in our last post re forced changes to our Tibet plans, we set off from Lhasa with much fanfare, five of us plus enough goodies to feed \/ shelter a small army (is that we got turned back??) in a landcruiser. First stop was intended to be our hard core hike, hence all the gear. Given as that was ultimately not to be, our second stop was at the roadside to drop off our cook plus all the camping supplies and five days worth of food, all of which he then duly took straight back to Lhasa. Hey ho.<\/p>\n<p>So as you can imagine, the shape of our Tibetan roadtrip changed somewhat. Whilst we&#8217;d envisaged a pretty rugged trip with lots of hiking and a few cultural stops along the way to give us some variety, the trip as it ended up was pretty heavy on the cultural stuff; although with some fantastic natural scenery along the way and some scary high passes to keep things interesting. The basic shape of the days was: get up (not too early \u2013 it&#8217;s COLD in Tibet this time of year!!), drive a bit, stop at a stunning monastery, look round for a while, head up to a pass and get your breath taken away (literally \u2013 all the passes are 5,000m plus so not too much breathing up here), drive a bit more, stop for the night, have a huge bowl of tasty curry as a reward for all that culture-spotting and head for bed. Not a bad life as it happens.<\/p>\n<p>The actual route took us south from Lhasa, via Samye, Gyantse and Shigatse monasteries, past a number of breathtaking high altitude lakes, and down the Friendship Highway (with pauses for spectacular views of Everest \u2013 see separate post) to the border to Nepal, from whence we headed to Kathmandu. The monasteries were spectacular; I&#8217;ve already written about the complexities of Tibetan monasteries, so for this post just enjoy the pretty piccies (not so many of the interiors I&#8217;m afraid as it&#8217;s very rare that photos are allowed inside). The only weird thing was that most of these monasteries, which look pretty amazing to us, are now apparently pretty shabby compared to past glories \u2013 the Cultural Revolution hit these places pretty hard, either partially \/ wholly destroying the buildings or at the very least allowing all the really good bling to be nicked. \u00a0Favourite part? Doing the kora (a pilgrimage route, typically lined with hundreds of prayer wheels, which takes you all the way round the monastery), in Shigatse. \u00a0The city of Shigatse is a big Chinese affair, recently built from large boring slabs of concrete, but the monastery and surrounding kora are beautiful, peaceful, and very Tibetan feeling &#8211; which about sums up a lot of Tibet in fact. \u00a0Plus by then we had acclimatised so we got to feel smug at our ability to cope with the altitude!<\/p>\n<p>The scenery is also incredible \u2013 very high and very barren, definitely falling on the impressive rather than pretty side of beautiful particularly at this time of year as winter sets in. \u00a0I really wouldn&#8217;t want to be a nomadic farmer out here &#8211; even the yaks looked cold and they are far FAR hairier than James or I even after 5 months travelling.<\/p>\n<p>Jury&#8217;s still out for us on whether we&#8217;d recommend people to go to Tibet or not given all the associated issues. \u00a0But hopefully the travel porn photos below provide the positive side of the argument &#8211; enjoy!!<\/p>\n\n\t\t<style type=\"text\/css\">\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 {\n\t\t\t\tmargin: auto;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 .gallery-item {\n\t\t\t\tfloat: left;\n\t\t\t\tmargin-top: 10px;\n\t\t\t\ttext-align: center;\n\t\t\t\twidth: 25%;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 img {\n\t\t\t\tborder: 2px solid #cfcfcf;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 .gallery-caption {\n\t\t\t\tmargin-left: 0;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t\/* see gallery_shortcode() in wp-includes\/media.php *\/\n\t\t<\/style>\n\t\t<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-1877 gallery-columns-4 gallery-size-thumbnail'><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Samye2.jpg'><img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Samye2-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Samye monastery - one of the few photos we have as we were still sulking about our cancelled trek at this point!\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-1897\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-1897'>\n\t\t\t\tSamye monastery &#8211; one of the few photos we have as we were still sulking about our cancelled trek at this point!\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Samye1.jpg'><img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Samye1-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Yeah, first proper prayer flag spot! Starting to cheer up a bit...\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-1896\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-1896'>\n\t\t\t\tYeah, first proper prayer flag spot!  Starting to cheer up a bit&#8230;\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/1st-pass-khamba-La.jpg'><img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/1st-pass-khamba-La-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Our first high pass - Khamba-La, at about 4,800m. Gasp!\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-1886\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-1886'>\n\t\t\t\tOur first high pass &#8211; Khamba-La, at about 4,800m.  Gasp!\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Roadside-monastery-2.jpg'><img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Roadside-monastery-2-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"A small monastery we passed on the roadside - so unimportant we can&#039;t remember the name!!\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-1895\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-1895'>\n\t\t\t\tA small monastery we passed on the roadside &#8211; so unimportant we can&#8217;t remember the name!!\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Roadside-monastery-1.jpg'><img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Roadside-monastery-1-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Not bad for an unnamed, unimportant monastery, hey?\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-1894\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-1894'>\n\t\t\t\tNot bad for an unnamed, unimportant monastery, hey?\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Gyantse.jpg'><img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Gyantse-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"And this is what the big guns version (should I say that about a monastery?) at Gyantse looks like\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-1892\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-1892'>\n\t\t\t\tAnd this is what the big guns version (should I say that about a monastery?) at Gyantse looks like \n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Gyantse-Buddha.jpg'><img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Gyantse-Buddha-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"One of the few interiors we could photo. They are all as beautiful or more so\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-1888\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-1888'>\n\t\t\t\tOne of the few interiors we could photo.  They are all as beautiful or more so\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Gyantse-protector.jpg'><img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Gyantse-protector-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"A protector, my favourite type of Buddhist image. The Buddhas themselves just look so SMUG at their whole nirvana achievement gig. Grrr.\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-1891\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-1891'>\n\t\t\t\tA protector, my favourite type of Buddhist image.  The Buddhas themselves just look so SMUG at their whole nirvana achievement gig.  Grrr.\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Gyantse-prayer-wheels.jpg'><img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Gyantse-prayer-wheels-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Obligatory prayer wheel shot. We have hundreds so be glad it&#039;s just the one!\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-1890\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-1890'>\n\t\t\t\tObligatory prayer wheel shot.   We have hundreds so be glad it&#8217;s just the one!\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Gyantse-pilgrims.jpg'><img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Gyantse-pilgrims-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Pilgrims lining up to enter the monastery\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-1889\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-1889'>\n\t\t\t\tPilgrims lining up to enter the monastery\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Shigatse-us.jpg'><img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Shigatse-us-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Beautiful Shigatse monastery\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-1901\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-1901'>\n\t\t\t\tBeautiful Shigatse monastery \n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Shigatse-bells.jpg'><img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Shigatse-bells-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Such a nice setting on the mountainside...although the uphill kora felt pretty painful!\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-1899\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-1899'>\n\t\t\t\tSuch a nice setting on the mountainside&#8230;although the uphill kora felt pretty painful!\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Shigatse-1.jpg'><img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Shigatse-1-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"If this alley was outside the monastery, it would probably smell of pee....\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-1898\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-1898'>\n\t\t\t\tIf this alley was outside the monastery, it would probably smell of pee&#8230;.\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Shigatse-monk.jpg'><img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Shigatse-monk-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Oooh, a monk, quick, take a photo. I have no shame.\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-1900\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-1900'>\n\t\t\t\tOooh, a monk, quick, take a photo.  I have no shame.\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Yamdrok-Tso.jpg'><img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/Yamdrok-Tso-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Yamdrok-Tso lake. Even more beautiful in reality\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-1902\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-1902'>\n\t\t\t\tYamdrok-Tso lake.  Even more beautiful in reality\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/2nd-pass-Pang-La.jpg'><img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-content\/uploads\/2nd-pass-Pang-La-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"One of our final passes of the drive. God it was cold!!\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-1887\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-1887'>\n\t\t\t\tOne of our final passes of the drive.  God it was cold!!\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>[Before you get too excited, no actual mayhem involved whatsoever. But hey, why let that spoil a great title?] So, as James may have mentioned between rants in our last post re forced changes to our Tibet plans, we set &hellip; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/2012\/11\/monastery-mayhem\/\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[15],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1877"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1877"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1877\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1908,"href":"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1877\/revisions\/1908"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1877"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1877"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.viggers.com\/roundtheworld\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1877"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}